Common Problems

Before sending your car to a mechanic, look here for solutions to common problems with the neon.

What will I need to work on my Neon?
	A repair manual. You should also get a copy of the Owner's Manual for your car & read it. It will outline important, common topics relating to routine, preventative maintenance & describe how to operate the car in a manner that will prevent many problems that occur due to unfamiliarity with the car's design. Tools: Metric-sized tools are required to work on the Neon. The tools needed will be specific to the repair, so it will be necessary to read the repair procedure in the book & then assemble the tools needed for the repair. For starters, pliers, screwdrivers, a socket set with extensions, "wiggle" (articulated) sockets, & a set of Torx bits are needed. An essential tool is a torque wrench. Many components have critical requirements for the amount of torque to be applied (including spark plugs). Specifications for torqueing particular fasteners are given in most shop manuals for the Neon.
What workshop manuals are available?
	The factory manual is superior, but more expensive. Three repair manuals for the Neon are currently available: The Chrysler Corporation's Dodge & Plymouth Neon Factory Service Manual (available from Chrysler). Dodge & Plymouth Neon 1995 thru 1999 by Haynes Publishing (ISBN 1 56392 369 6 available at bookstores or some auto parts stores) Chilton's Chrysler Neon, 1995-99 by Thomson Delmar Learning (ISBN-10: 080198971X available at bookstores or some auto parts stores)
Wind Noise
	Wind noise is most likely due to either worn-out weather stripping or misadjusted windows. Owners can adjust the windows themselves using instructions from Chrysler or neons.org.
Noisy power steering
	very common - can usually be fixed by changing the power steering fluid. Dispose of the toxic fluid carefully at a local oil recycling shop.
My spare tire well or my rear set foot well is wet
	Chances are this water is coming in around the taillights. Clear replacement taillights are notorious for leaking due to cheap gaskets; however, even the OEM units leak. Get a fresh set of gaskets (about $15) from the Dodge/Plymouth dealer. When installing them, make sure the rim of the body opening is clean and smooth. Try also setting them in a small bead of RTV silicone sealant.
My brake lights came on & won't go off. What's wrong?
	This refers to the brake lights on the back of the car, not the brake light near the gauges. This is usually a problem with the brake light switch under the brake pedal. The switch is a plunger: when the plunger is up, the brake lights are off; if the plunger is pushed in by the brake pedal, the brake lights come on. Examine the switch. Sometimes the it will just break, sometimes the plunger will fall out of the switch. Usually, it is out of adjustment. Don't bend the metal or shim the plunger. Give the whole thing a twist counterclockwise to undo the clip. Once you have it off, pull the black plunger until it is about 3/4" out. (Pull hard, it will make a ratchet sound as you pull out.) Put the switch back on by a clockwise twist in the square hole on the bracket (the brake pedal should be down when you put the switch back). The brake pedal will push the plunger a little, but not all the way. It is self-adjusting and should work normally if this was the problem.
My Neon makes a whistling or squealing noise when I turn it off. Could this be a problem?
	The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) may emit a high-pitched "whistle" sound after the engine is shut off. The sound may last up to eight minutes. The noise can vary in pitch and intensity from one PCM to the next and with changes in temperature and battery system voltage. This noise is due to the PCM being "powered up" after ignition-off to enable a diagnostic routine for the O2 heater operation. This diagnostic routine will only occur when certain parameters are met, which include engine operating temperature and how long the vehicle has been driven. This noise may also be heard with the ignition on and engine running, but is usually muffled by the normal engine operation sounds. Replacing the PCM may seem to eliminate the noise for a period of time, but this is only due to the system not meeting the qualifying parameters to run the ignition-off diagnostic routine. THIS IS AN OPERATIONAL CHARACTERISTIC OF THE PCM AND NO REPAIRS SHOULD BE ATTEMPTED!
My engine's leaking oil.
	Don't panic yet. Both the SOHC & DOHC engines may leak oil at the cam position sensor (CMP), which is located below the intake piping that leads from the airbox containing the air filter to the throttle body. There is an O-ring seal at this sensor which can fail, but is relatively easy to replace. The resulting oil leak can appear to be either the head gasket or the main seal between engine and transmission. Check this spot first. Another common leak is the oil pressure sensor, located on the back of the block under the exhaust manifold. This is also sometimes mistaken for head gasket failure. Remove the sensor unit using a special 1 1/16" oil pressure sender socket (available at auto parts stores), as regular sockets will damage the unit. Apply oil-resistant (yellow) teflon pipe tape to the threads of the sensor, and reinstall it.
My Check engine light is on, What do I do?
	1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. 2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on. Here are the engine codes: 11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking 12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles 13 No change in MAP from start to run 14 MAP sensor voltage too low 15 No vehicle speed sensor signal 17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long 21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream 22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range 23 Intake air temp sensor out of range 24 Throttle Position sensor out of range 25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found 27 Injector control circuit 31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit 32 EGR system failure 33 A/C clutch relay circuit 34 Speed control Solenoid circuits 35 Rad Fan control relay circuit 37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure 41 Generator field not switching properly 42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles 43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire 44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range 46 Charging system voltage too low 51 Fuel system lean 52 Fuel system rich 53 Internal control failure 54 No Cam signal at PCM 55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found) 62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored 63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied 64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure 65 Power steering switch failure TIP: After fixing the problem, Disconnect the positive battery terminal for 1 minute, then Re-connect it. The first time you start your car it will stall (this is the computer learning the new codes.) Start it again and this will turn off the check engine light.